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Turbo Spruitstukken
#41
Yes! Why not continue in English :?: Lets make it an international forum! :!:
Bedankt en de groeten! 245 GL '79/244 GL '80/745 GL '85/144 DL '72/Amazon Combi '68
#42
So the rest of the world can also read this nonsence?? Big Grin
#43
and... on topic again, but in a different language (which is fine to me):

I'm trying to find one of those turbo exhaust manifolds of a 90+ Volvo, but they are hard to find over here unfortunately....

Thanks a lot by the way for your website, both the manifold upgrade AND the ferrita exhaust are extremely helpful. Too bad your car (all US Volvo's) have less HP due to all the environmental restrictions...
#44
What is the adress of that webite of stealthfti?
#45
OT:
thank you, JW, for standing in for me. I appreciate that.

lj dekker, If it is talking Volvos, it is not really nonsense. Maybe a lot of hot air [haha]; but all for fun and a good purpose.

my galleries are at http://www.pbase.com/stealthfti

Ticcie, true enough: here in the 'States, we got into the emissions controls sooner, and more extensively, than you guys had to over there. But, we have our ways to work around that to a point. Not all states are as authoritarian as California, so it is possible to do things to improve the power.

back on topic:


the 90+ manifold is not very easy to find over here either. Most people want one that is not cracked. I did not see an uncracked one until last year. All the 90+ manifolds that I have ported and installed have at least one crack in back. The 90+ that I installed on my son Ted's 242T when we installed the Ferrita 3in SS system had three cracks around the goilet in back. It does not leak; and it has been working fine for well over a year. I was expecting for that manifold to start leaking sometime, because it has three cracks. It has not started to leak at all.

The 90+ that I installed on my wagon [B21FTi] had two cracks; and it is still good over 150,000 miles later.

Perhaps you might be able to find a cracked one. Perhaps even for a low price because most people think that if it is cracked, then it is useless.

If you can find a cracked one, then port the outlet for better flow. Besides the improved flow, I believe that the porting work does a lot to reduce the internal stresses in the manifold casting that help cause the cracks in the first place. The manifolds, as cast, are too thick around the outlet flange area in comparison the the thickness of the four runners. Combine the difference in metal thickness with the very small outlet [which I am convinced only makes the manifold run hotter], and you have a good recipe for stress cracks.

The other thing that contributes to the 90+ manifold cracking is when the four runner flanges get warped. Because the four runners are tied together, they cannot spread; but they can twist and warp so that they are not truly flat against the cylinder head. I have found the warp to be as much as 0.040in. That is a lot of warp.

Machine the four flanges to be truly flat, port the outlet to optimize the flow, and you can use a cracked 90+. I cannot promise you that it will last a long time; but I have put five cracked 90+ manifolds on the road, and all five are still working fine.

I have one spare 90+ on the shelf. It is commited for an upcoming project. When I need parts, I usually buy a whole car. I do not often visit the junk yards.

The owner of the 'Project 15A' 765T that I built an L block B230FT for does visit the junk yards around his area on a fairly regular basis. He has found some special little items I wanted from time to time. I will talk to him [15A], and see if he knows of any 90+ manifolds in the yards. He is a good guy. I will let you know what 15A tells me.

Thomas Fritz
...the stealth FTi
#46
Hi guys,

I talked to 15A; and told him about volvolvo.nl. He visited the site; and has registered.

He knows of one 90+ in a junk yard; but will have to see if it is still there. He has not been searching for any 90+ manifolds, so he may have missed some in his visits.

I have been reading some of the past posts, using a translator. Even though such translators do not do a complete job, I have been able to comprehend the gist of the discussions.

I am honored to be welcome here. I will try to be worthy of that welcome.

There are some discussions that I hope to contribute to, but I want to get a better understanding of what things have been discussed before I do. So I will continue to lurk and read.

To add a few comments on the 90+ manifold upgrade:

the heater return pipe is different on motors that have the 90+. It is routed further down the side of the engine block. It is necessary to be that way because the 90+ manifold fits closer to the block in the area behind the goilet/collector area. The stock 240T heater return pipe will not work without major bending/rerouting. It is easier to obtain and install a pipe that was on a 90+ manifold equipped motor.

the 90+ does not locate the turbo in exactly the same spot. This can cause an alignment problem for the exhaust downpipe. Not a large problem, but one to be aware of.

the oil supply pipe and the oil return pipe will need some modification in order to work with the 90+, because of the fact that the turbo is not in the exact same place as before, and because the manifold and the heater return pipe will interfere with the routing of the oil supply pipe.

I am a believer in the value of upgrading to the 90+. It works very well. I must qualify that statement by saying that I have always increased the size of the exhaust system when I have installed a 90+: either to 2.5in or 3in.

I am a firm believer in 3in exhaust systems. It is the only way to go in my book. I built a turbo back 3in system for my wagon. I will never have an exhaust system behind a turbo that is smaller than 3in again. The difference in flow and in power was and is substantial.

Backpressure is the enemy to power. Backpressure prevents the turbo from doing all that it can do. With a 3in exhaust, I can reduce the backpressure considerably. The turbo can spool up much quicker; and I can hit full boost at a lower RPM than before.

Because I have not installed a 90+ manifold on a car that kept the stock exhaust, I cannot offer any comment on how much of a power increase that only installing a 90+ manifold will give.

I recounted the total: I have installed six cracked 90+ manifolds, not five. And all six are still functioning well, without leaks.

TF
#47
so 3 possible 'problems' to overcome:

* heater return pipe - I will have a look at my car, I'm not sure where it is exactly

* oil return pipe - saw a solution with a flexible pipe

* downpipe - I'm planning to install a Ferrita 3 inch exhaust, which you did as well. Did you have any problems installing the Ferrita downpipe??

A bit off-topic, but I also read that you installed a flexible part and an extra muffler on the Ferrita set. Is the flexible part necessary?? I think I will try the Ferrita set as it comes first and later modify it if necessary, but if you already know that it's very noisy or that a flexible part is really recommended, I would like to know (saves some work. My car is lowered, so I shouldn't have the problem you described on your site).
#48
Ticcie, the Ferrita 3in SS system is an excellent choice. With your car being lowered, the Ferrita system should bolt right on.

I agree that you should try it as-is first, to see if there are any alignment problems.

The one thing that I think that you will need to do is to modify the right rear crash guard. Some people remove it. I prefer to modify it and keep it in place.

I especially like the Ferrita downpipe. It is well designed, and the materials are first rate. The support bracket and band clamp that are installed at a bellhousing bolt work very well to support the weight of the system, and to help locate the downpipe. The bracketry allows for the variation in turbo location with the 90+.

The old style manifold has the threaded hole for the oxygen sensor. The 90+ does not. You will need to add a bung for the O2 sensor. I welded the bung onto the downpipe, in a position to make it easy to replace the narrowband O2 sensor. If you are planning on installing a wideband O2, then you would locate that down below, near the transmission.

As far as noise goes, the Ferrita system is acceptable as-is. The muffler gives a rumble like thunder in the distance. It does not sound like a ricer with a fart-can tailpipe. I installed a Moroso Spiral Flow muffler on the Streak because the owner is about my age, and a loud exhaust was not his goal. Excellent flow and good power from an exhaust system that would not rust out in 3 years were.

My experience has been that with a single muffler system, you can have good flow or good noise reduction. You choose one or the other. If you want good flow AND good noise reduction, you have to go with two mufflers, or with a muffler and a resonator. The Ferrita muffler surprised me: it gives good flow, and it does a good job at noise reduction as well. Most aftermarket mufflers cannot do both jobs.

A flex coupling is optional. I install flex couplings because the flex coupling isolates the turbo from any stress induced by the exhaust pipes/muffler moving around. I also like the additional amount of adjustability that a flex coupling gives me when I mount the pipes and hook up the rubber hangars. A flex coupling just makes an installation easier, and helps reduce the stress on the turbo and manifold.

When you install your Ferrita system, and if you find that you need just a bit more room under the axle, then you might fabricate a couple of mount extensions like I did in the following pictures:

http://www.pbase.com/stealthfti/image/37579796
http://www.pbase.com/stealthfti/image/37579900

Being able to lower the muffler about 1.5in REALLY helped out. I made the first set for the Streak. And I went back and made a set for Ted's car as well. On Ted's car, those two extenders made everything fit and align perfectly.

I am sure that you will love the Ferrita system. It is well worth the price and the effort of installation.

TF
#49
hello stealthfi

i looked on your pbase-page with pictures that nice info to us.
nice that you will post on this forum.
enjoy your visit here.
reading is ok , but writing is sometimes difficult for me.
i try it , and if it is not good , there are always people here that improve the wrong words. Big Grin
#50
thanks a lot for this info! Will try the Ferrita system with no mods first - a thunder in the distance is fine, but I drive about 45000km (30000miles) per year with it and too much noise can be very tiring...

The European turbo's don't have the 02-sensor, so that's no problem. I have new lowered springs which lower the car between 1,5 and 2 inch so I think that I don't need the additional space, but the pics and description are excellent, thank's a lot. Your story was the one that convinced me to go for the Ferrita set by the way! As fuel is quite expensive over here, the car runs on LPG and the LPG tank is in place were the rear muffler normally is. the muffler goes backward. not very pretty, but an efficient solution to keep the inside of the car free of a big LPG tank.

Still a few months work before the car runs again by the way, it's just back from a paintjob.


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