10 March 2006, 00:54
OT:
thank you, JW, for standing in for me. I appreciate that.
lj dekker, If it is talking Volvos, it is not really nonsense. Maybe a lot of hot air [haha]; but all for fun and a good purpose.
my galleries are at http://www.pbase.com/stealthfti
Ticcie, true enough: here in the 'States, we got into the emissions controls sooner, and more extensively, than you guys had to over there. But, we have our ways to work around that to a point. Not all states are as authoritarian as California, so it is possible to do things to improve the power.
back on topic:
the 90+ manifold is not very easy to find over here either. Most people want one that is not cracked. I did not see an uncracked one until last year. All the 90+ manifolds that I have ported and installed have at least one crack in back. The 90+ that I installed on my son Ted's 242T when we installed the Ferrita 3in SS system had three cracks around the goilet in back. It does not leak; and it has been working fine for well over a year. I was expecting for that manifold to start leaking sometime, because it has three cracks. It has not started to leak at all.
The 90+ that I installed on my wagon [B21FTi] had two cracks; and it is still good over 150,000 miles later.
Perhaps you might be able to find a cracked one. Perhaps even for a low price because most people think that if it is cracked, then it is useless.
If you can find a cracked one, then port the outlet for better flow. Besides the improved flow, I believe that the porting work does a lot to reduce the internal stresses in the manifold casting that help cause the cracks in the first place. The manifolds, as cast, are too thick around the outlet flange area in comparison the the thickness of the four runners. Combine the difference in metal thickness with the very small outlet [which I am convinced only makes the manifold run hotter], and you have a good recipe for stress cracks.
The other thing that contributes to the 90+ manifold cracking is when the four runner flanges get warped. Because the four runners are tied together, they cannot spread; but they can twist and warp so that they are not truly flat against the cylinder head. I have found the warp to be as much as 0.040in. That is a lot of warp.
Machine the four flanges to be truly flat, port the outlet to optimize the flow, and you can use a cracked 90+. I cannot promise you that it will last a long time; but I have put five cracked 90+ manifolds on the road, and all five are still working fine.
I have one spare 90+ on the shelf. It is commited for an upcoming project. When I need parts, I usually buy a whole car. I do not often visit the junk yards.
The owner of the 'Project 15A' 765T that I built an L block B230FT for does visit the junk yards around his area on a fairly regular basis. He has found some special little items I wanted from time to time. I will talk to him [15A], and see if he knows of any 90+ manifolds in the yards. He is a good guy. I will let you know what 15A tells me.
Thomas Fritz
...the stealth FTi
thank you, JW, for standing in for me. I appreciate that.
lj dekker, If it is talking Volvos, it is not really nonsense. Maybe a lot of hot air [haha]; but all for fun and a good purpose.
my galleries are at http://www.pbase.com/stealthfti
Ticcie, true enough: here in the 'States, we got into the emissions controls sooner, and more extensively, than you guys had to over there. But, we have our ways to work around that to a point. Not all states are as authoritarian as California, so it is possible to do things to improve the power.
back on topic:
the 90+ manifold is not very easy to find over here either. Most people want one that is not cracked. I did not see an uncracked one until last year. All the 90+ manifolds that I have ported and installed have at least one crack in back. The 90+ that I installed on my son Ted's 242T when we installed the Ferrita 3in SS system had three cracks around the goilet in back. It does not leak; and it has been working fine for well over a year. I was expecting for that manifold to start leaking sometime, because it has three cracks. It has not started to leak at all.
The 90+ that I installed on my wagon [B21FTi] had two cracks; and it is still good over 150,000 miles later.
Perhaps you might be able to find a cracked one. Perhaps even for a low price because most people think that if it is cracked, then it is useless.
If you can find a cracked one, then port the outlet for better flow. Besides the improved flow, I believe that the porting work does a lot to reduce the internal stresses in the manifold casting that help cause the cracks in the first place. The manifolds, as cast, are too thick around the outlet flange area in comparison the the thickness of the four runners. Combine the difference in metal thickness with the very small outlet [which I am convinced only makes the manifold run hotter], and you have a good recipe for stress cracks.
The other thing that contributes to the 90+ manifold cracking is when the four runner flanges get warped. Because the four runners are tied together, they cannot spread; but they can twist and warp so that they are not truly flat against the cylinder head. I have found the warp to be as much as 0.040in. That is a lot of warp.
Machine the four flanges to be truly flat, port the outlet to optimize the flow, and you can use a cracked 90+. I cannot promise you that it will last a long time; but I have put five cracked 90+ manifolds on the road, and all five are still working fine.
I have one spare 90+ on the shelf. It is commited for an upcoming project. When I need parts, I usually buy a whole car. I do not often visit the junk yards.
The owner of the 'Project 15A' 765T that I built an L block B230FT for does visit the junk yards around his area on a fairly regular basis. He has found some special little items I wanted from time to time. I will talk to him [15A], and see if he knows of any 90+ manifolds in the yards. He is a good guy. I will let you know what 15A tells me.
Thomas Fritz
...the stealth FTi